If there is one thing that Elie Saab consistently delivers in his collections, it is over the top glamour. As you watch the styles come down the catwalk, you can’t help yourself to imagine them floating down the Red Carpet at the Oscars.
For his Fall 2010 Haute Couture Collection, Elie Saab took his inspiration from La Fenice, Venice’s legendary opera house. He borrowed ‘the ruched velvet of La Fenice’s curtains, the gilt and blue of its decoration, and even the fire and ash of its hellish moments’. The grandeur of that locale was certainly captured with the heavily embellished gowns and the colors reflected it as well. Vivid scarlet reds were the strongest of the colors, but there were also nice groupings of gold, pewter, champagne and even a silvery mint blue.
While the heavily beaded gowns that you come to expect of Elie Saab were definitely present, the designer also played with different forms of conveying the richness and elegance he is known for. Layering of fabrics was very important to this collection with Guipure lace swathed in tulle, pleated and draped mousseline over solids or combined with lush beadwork. Form fitting gowns were equally balanced with flowing chiffon gowns and voluminous and frothy ball gowns.
Interestingly, there were also a number of gowns in the collection that were not beaded at all, but relied instead on draping techniques. Saab’s use of draping and pleating reflected a desire of the designer to play with classical draping. By not embellishing these gowns, the focus was placed on the delicate drapes and how they worked themselves around the body.
While a bit more covered up than his previous collections, Saab still manages to exude sexiness with thigh high slits and an emphasis on the body beneath the gown. Sexy yes, but definitely a grown-up sexy. And, definitely for the woman that wants to be noticed.